In tips#3 we discussed using your vehicle as a mobile blind. This month we will discuss using blinds in general. A blind is often necessary in order to get close enough to many bird species. Relatively tame species such as a chickadee will eat from your hand, but if you try the same trick with a sunfish, don't hold your breath waiting for a Great Blue Heron to fly in!

Unlike the car blind, most blinds are not very mobile structures. Therefore some thought must be given to the location you choose. Consider using blinds in feeding areas such as your backyard, waterways frequented by waterfowl and wading birds. Other areas include drumming logs and some nest sites. A particularly effective, albeit pungent trick is to use a road kill to attract Vultures and other scavengers. Photographing nesting birds is very risky as your presence, as well as being disruptive, can easily attract predators via scent or your activity. In our experience, the vast majority of nest sites are unsuitable for photography and should be left alone. You may however, be able to take advantage of a birds preferred perch, and set up the blind near this site. For an example of this, refer to Tips#1 and associated Photo of the Month. (Take special note of the care taken in background control)

Setting up the blind

Many birds will quickly accept the presence of a blind and you will be able to begin shooting almost immediately, whereas other species will require time to accept the blind. One strategy is to set the blind up in the area, and move it closer and closer over a period of days until it is at the desired shooting location. (I.e. drumming logs for Ruffed Grouse) One problem with this method is the risk of theft or vandalism. It is also a good idea to use a piece of pipe or tubing to simulate a lens poking out so your subject isn't startled by your camera lens.

Try to place the blind near natural cover such as bushes in order to blend in with the surroundings better.

Getting in and out of the blind

Getting in and out of a blind can be disruptive, therefore it is advantageous to plan on being in the blind before your subject arrives. Alternatively, do not exit the blind until there is a lull in activity. Some photographers advocate having a second person walk with you to the blind and then leaving you behind, which gives the illusion that the intruder has left. The theory being that the birds can't count.

Surviving in the blind

Anticipate how much time you have to spend and plan accordingly. Mom's advice to always go to the bathroom (even if you don't have to) before you leave home cannot be overstressed! If you will be spending a few hours in the blind, food and drink is wise. Keep in mind the diuretic and laxative effect of some beverages such as coffee.

Comfort is paramount as blind work quickly becomes cramped. A padded chair with a back support is strongly recommended. Proper ventilation is needed for comfort and to prevent viewfinder fogging. Make sure you have enough film, batteries, food, etc. as once you're in the blind, you're in for the duration!

Photography from a blind

Movement and noise will startle your subject. You want to keep movements slow and to a minimum. (Avoid swinging the lens rapidly from subject to subject) Automatic film rewind is notoriously disruptive, this is a case where manual rewind is helpful. (See tips#2) Using a cable release when focused on a specific area will improve image sharpness by reducing camera shake. If your subject temporally flies off, and you find yourself with only a couple of frames left, consider changing film before the action begins again. That way your not stuck having to change film with the shot of a lifetime posing in front of you!

Blind Types

They can be everything from an old appliance box to a several hundred-dollar mail order blind. (Guess which one gets left out for days for birds to get used to!) A very effective blind is the "Bag blind". It is easy to make, portable, lightweight, and cheap. Commercial varieties are available*, however, you can make your own quite easily. We have our own design, if interested email us for details. The basic idea is to make a camouflage blanket, which covers the photographer.

The next type of blind has a rigid frame to provide form to the structure. It is really nothing more that a small camouflaged tent. (A cardboard box falls into this category as well) Commercial varieties * are available. (There are cheaper options than buying a new fridge just to get the box!) For do-it-yourselfer's, buy a child's play tent or a small pup tent. Sew camo material onto the existing tent material and cut ports for viewing and photography.

The third type are more permanent structures. They can be wooden structures built on scaffolding, permanent blinds in parks, or even your house window.

The last types are specialized blinds such as the "floating blind". This will be discussed in a future article.

In summary, the use of a blind can be very rewarding as you will become a part of the environment and will provide photographic opportunities that otherwise would not be possible. Blinds do not have to be elaborate to be effective, in fact if you can make it ugly enough, no self-respecting thief or vandal will bother it! Join us next month as we discuss Warbler photography. (Or how to build a portfolio of perches that once had brilliantly colored birds!)

* Email us for details

Copyright Scott Fairbairn and John Reaume

Canada Goose info: Shot using a bag blind while standing in the middle of a creek in spring 1998. Nikon F4s, 500mmf4	Fox Sparrow info: Shot using a bag blind in November 1998, Nikon F5, 500mmf4
Copyright Scott Fairbairn and John Reaume