This month we will discuss a very specialized type of blind known as a "floating blind". First, we will cover the reasons for using a floating blind, and last will cover specific designs and applications.

A FB (floating blind) is an excellent way of obtaining photographs of waterbirds such as herons and ducks. There are advantages to a FB that you cannot obtain by sitting on the shore in a fixed blind. A FB allows you to move about a marsh or lake in order to stalk your subject and/or to obtain the best lighting angle. Another advantage of a FB is that you can get down to eye level of your subject. Tim Fitzharris has many beautiful waterfowl photographs using this method. A note of warning is best mentioned here, because you will be in the water, it is best to exercise extreme caution and wear a proper floatation device.

This photo of a Pied-billed Grebe was taken using a floating blind. The lense is about a foot above the water and demonstrates the intimacy of eye-level photography. Photo by Scott Fairbairn

This photo of a striking Great Egret was also taken using a floating blind. This subject paid no attention to the FB to the point that the photographer had to back up in order to keep all of it in the frame. Photo by Scott Fairbairn

There are basically two major types of floating blinds. They are separated based upon their construction. The first is the "Fisherman's Float Tube" style, and the second involves constructing a floating platform of some type.

The "Fisherman's Float Tube" Style is basically an inner tube with a seat and is available from fishing/outdoor stores. Advantages of this style include portability and greater maneuverability in tight quarters. It is also easier to construct. Disadvantages include decreased stability, less working space, and it requires deeper water to function properly. Additionally, even simple movements can result in generating ripples, which can startle your subject. Conversely, the platform type will allow you greater freedom to move about inside without necessarily generating ripples.

To convert the Float tube to a floating blind, use flexible PVC tubing lashed into a circle on top of the tube. Put holes in the PVC and bend either aluminum rods or fiberglass poles to form a "dome" over top of you. Some experimentation will be necessary to find the best height. You want it high enough for comfort, but no higher than necessary as a lower profile makes a better blind. Lastly, cut and sew camouflage material to cover, allowing for eyeholes and lenses. This design will work fine for handholding smaller lenses. If you are using large and heavy lenses, you can make a floating platform, which extends out infront, with two arms which are tied to the floating tube. For example, to make a floating square, make a plywood platform and glue 6 inches of Styrofoam to the plywood. You can then attach two arms to the plywood which extend backwards and "hug" the float tube (see attached photo).

Here is a float tube utilizing gray flexible pvc tubing bent into a circle with aluminum rods used to create the "dome". (ignore the white pipe which is used for another variation) Cover with Camoflage material and you are set.

Here is the platform and how it sits against the float tube. If you look at the platform photo, it can be seen that there is a "lip" which rests on the edge of the float tube. This serves to enhance stability. Once again, bend poles to form the frame, then cover with camoflage material.

This is the floating platform explained in the article. The stryofoam base extends out in front of the float tube and provides a relatively stable platform to place a tripod head. The styrofoam provides the floatation necessary to hold heavier lenses. Note however, that the "arms" must be lashed to the tube securely to prevent flipping in the water.

The Floating Platform Style will involve some handyman skills, but has the benefit of more room and is much more stable. Some photographers have even added electric trolling motors to larger versions! While more involved to manufacture, the gist is to make a Styrofoam platform at least 6 inches thick and glue this to a sheet of plywood. The overall dimensions can be quite variable, from four-foot circles to rectangular behemoths. A central space is cut out to accommodate the photographer. In the FB's we have, the space is about 20 inches wide.

The overall dimensions as stated previously can be quite variable. One model we have made is approximately 44 inches wide and 70 inches long. One thing to keep in mind is to consider the vehicle you will use to transport it, as it is easier to carry it inside versus on the roof. Make holes or holders in the corners for poles, over which you can drape camo material. The poles can be 1/4 or 3/8 inch aluminum rod or even fiberglass tent poles.

This photograph shows the floating blind sitting in the marsh with a lens protruding from the front. The amount of natural vegetation woven onto could be increased as it will make the blind less conspicious.

Here the floating blind is loaded up and ready to go into the marsh.

This is a closer view of a typical setup. In the background you can see swim fins in case I ended up in deeper water. On the main deck is a towel, which is essential for wiping off the camera deck in case of splashes. A plywood platform with a tripod screw is used to hold the ballhead. This smaller platform rests on the main deck and is movable in case you need the camera closer or further from the lens snout.

One problem with the Styrofoam bottom is that it is fragile, and will tend to flake off when dragged against the bottom. One solution is to cover with fiberglass. Our models utilize fiberglass as a protector. Keep in mind that fiberglass resin will melt Styrofoam necessitating pre-covering the Styrofoam with some type of barrier. We used "glossy" Bristol board (non-waxy Bristol board will absorb the resin and interfere with the curing process). In summary, a few tips are in order to ensure success of your FB. The FB is essentially imitating a muskrat house so it helps to cover or "weave" reeds and grasses on the blind. Marsh and lake bottoms can be quite variable in consistency so it is wise to probe or test your site first. Keep in mind that some pond bottoms can be very soft and will literally "suck" your boots off when you try to walk! Using a boat and a stick is a simple way to do this. Whichever FB you decide upon, there will be an "optimum depth" to work at. This will be a depth where you are not too hunched over or having water flowing over the brim of your waders! The first few times out, it might be wise to leave the camera gear at home until you are familiar with the device. Additionally, having a "buddy" available to help you the first time or two out may be wise. A life vest is cheap insurance should you get in over your head! "Walking Fins" or swim fins are essential if you get into deep water, as it is very difficult to make headway kicking with boots alone.

Use the FB only on calm, still days. This will not only ensure good photographs, but also reduce the risk of misadventure. Additionally, chest waders are essential, if only to keep the leeches out! Get the tallest waders you can. It only takes one soaker with short waders to realize how efficient they are at containing leeches. Insulated ones are required for cold water use as hypothermia is a very real hazard (extended outings even in summertime can result in hypothermia). Next month we will discuss air travel and photo equipment.

Copyright Scott Fairbairn and John Reaume